Reply To: Pass the Farkolga

[orionid]

Make sure the selector window on the back matches the frame inside. The smaller frame is 16 4×6 shots, the bigger frame is 12 6×6 shots. 400 iso works great in overcast, 200 or 100 in full light. Neither one works indoors. I threw the 800 in there for fun, it’ll probably be fine indoors during daytime.

You can also force-fit 35mm in it and take it to walgreens/cvs/rite aid etc to get developed, but you have to do a couple small (non-permanent) things first.
1) Cover the red window, unless you want half your photo to be blown out with red. Use aluminum ducting tape, gaffers tape, or some other light-tight tape. Or a piece of cardboard and duct tape.
2) Put the 35mm cartridge in the supply side, then use styrofoam peanuts to keep it snug. Tape the film leader to the take-up spool.
3) Wind it about 18 clicks per frame. I’m guessing by the spacing on my negatives, every three shots or so, you can take two clicks out of the figure.
4) Unload it only in a dark bag or closet/bathroom with the door sealed off from light leaks, and hand-roll the film back into the cartridge.
5) MOST IMPORTANT – Make sure your developer knows that the negatives are not standard size, and that you will cut and scan them yourself. Lest you wind up with some pimply-faced teenager just using the pre-marked frame for standard 35mm spacing.

Here’s some of my shots with it.

Noob question – do you need a special scanner for this, or can you use any run-of-the-mill scanner if it has a high enough resolution?

Both. Any scanner with a film function will work. Basically, the driver turns off the light under the glass and turns on a light above the film to get a shoot-through effect. I have heard (although not tested side by side) that a dedicated film scanner gives better results than a dual purpose flatbed, but I’ve found no problems using an epson perfection 2580 or V500.