Bottom-line camera for HDR?
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What’s the bottom-end for recommended cameras for HDR? I’ve been shopping for a camera to replace my film hardware entirely, probably going to save up a bit and make the leap to the Nikon D80.
However, I’d also like to experiment a bit, and I’m wondering what’s the absolute bottom end anyone has tried using for HDR?
I think all you really need is a camera that can bracket exposures, or at the very least a camera that you have enough manual control that you can adjust your exposures and bracket yourself. RAW capability would be better, as it allows for more lattitude. I think Fuji and Leica both make point and shoots that have RAW capability. Canon used to (the G-series), but I think their newest G model (G7 maybe?) removed that feature. You also need a good solid, stable tripod, as any amount of shake will make aligning the images more difficult and result in ghosting.
I think you could do a HDR with nearly any digital camera. As long as you change the exposure level on the camera and can keep the camera still then you should be able to make a HDR from the resultant photos.
/me goes off to test this theory with his old 2mp Sony!
/me goes off to test this theory with his old 2mp Sony!
And here is the result (3 exposures: -2, 0, +2):
Compared to the photo with no exposure change:
Apart from some camera shake, it seems to have worked ok.
i have the leica point and shoot referred to above, it is called the d-lux 3, and while i havent gotten around to doing any hdr yet, i feel confident that it would work just fine. it does do RAW, and is ten megapixel, so the images are plenty large. panasonic makes a camera that is essentially the same as the d-lux, but it is a lot more noisy, it isnt reccommended to take it off of iso 100. i have shot my leica all the way up to 1600, and while it is noisy, it is decent looking noise, as noise goes. i have no problems whatsoever shooting it at iso 400. it is also nice because my camera and tripod weigh right around three pounds, light enough to take anywhere and use every day.
I don’t know what you used for processing Swampa but in CS2 you can align the images manually at any zoom level before merging to HDR.
I just used the auto align option in CS2, unfortunately it seems to have focused on one building when aligning (my love for the bracketing function and a remote is much higher than my love for changing the exposure levels and trying not to shake the camera when hitting the button thanks to this experiment :P)
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