May 5, 2013 at 11:43 pm #2987
Here’s a test run on one of the panos I shot subs for while in the Ozarks. I need to go back and clean up a few stitching errors that showed up with the tangle of branches in the upper right, but other than that I think it was worth all the damn tick and chigger bites that I’m still farkin’ scratching 10 days later. Also, I really need to invest in a pano head. I’m shocked this stitched as well as it did considering the foreground in the subs was only 4 ft from the lens and the parallax is pretty obvious when flipping through the subs.
I’m thinking this is a bit bright, but I’m expecting the prints to be darker (because they always seem to be!). How about y’all? Too light? Unsaturated? Etc? Reduced from ~20Kx10K pixels, or about 1/2 rez.
(yeah, I know, FB link…I’ll get the final up on flickr when it’s done.May 5, 2013 at 11:47 pm #51456YugoboyParticipant
The only part that’s too bright (IMHO) is where the sun hits the water just right of center in the river. Despite the fact that it’ll print darker (I have the same problem), When the pixels are straight white, there’s not a lot of correction that can be made.
I do hope I’m wrong, because it sure is pretty.May 6, 2013 at 12:27 am #51457
Dammit. I was thinking the same thing. I need to add some ND filter action to
my wishlist, obviously. I had a pair of circular polarizers stacked up in a vain
attempt to cut back on the light (didn’t work, of course). What kills me on
panos is that if anything is wrong with your setup or routine, there’s not much
that can be done to correct it later.
Still, once I clean up the stitching errors this will go to print and I’ll just have to
do better next time. 🙂May 6, 2013 at 12:37 am #51458orionidParticipant
Looks good, I wouldn’t worry too much about the blowouts and I didn’t even notice the stich error until I went back and looked for it specifically. The only thing I would do is in the color. The high amount of IR refelcted by chlorophyl triggers slightly as red on your sensor. That causes green leaves in bright sunlight to record more yellow than they actually are. A slight color adjustment by dragging your yellows closer to greens in PS or ACR should do that quite nicely. (Notice how even in the same trees, the leaves fade yellower as they get higher and grab more direct sunlight. I never knew what caused that until I started shooting IR.May 6, 2013 at 1:16 am #51459
^useful tidbit, that is. I’ll have to see what I can do in RawTherapee to correct that.
After I get my butt in gear and do a rebuild I’ll have the gimp running in 16bpc mode
so I can have somewhat-standard tools to work with. I like rawtherapee, but it’s a strange
UI. It has it’s plusses, but it’s like moving from Maya to 3DStudio, if you know what I mean.May 10, 2013 at 2:46 pm #51460
After futzing around with control points for a couple of evenings, I’ve come
to the conclusion that I really do need a decent pano head. The duplicate
image data in the upper right is due to paralax between the fore- and back-
grounds. The only cure for it is to ensure the camera’s nodal point is oriented
properly at the axis of rotation.
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