06-10-09 – Tilt-Shift Faked Miniature Scenes

Forums Forums Farktography General Chat This week’s contest 06-10-09 – Tilt-Shift Faked Miniature Scenes

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 123 total)
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  • #22448
    Choc-Ful-A
    Participant

    I’ve had decent results in Gimp using this process (in case it helps other people).

    The assumption is that the original photo is landscape mode, meaning the width is bigger than the height, and the band in focus will be horizontal. The same sort of thing should work with portrait mode photos or diagonal focus areas. But the specific numbers to use and the way you select the blur areas would have to change.

    1. Use the rectangular selection tool to select the band I want to stay in focus. Make sure to expand the rectangle to cover the entire width of the image to avoid blurry edges.

    2. Then “Select -> Invert”

    3. Then “Select -> Feather” and pick a value that’s about 10% of the width of the photo

    4. Pick “Filter -> Blur -> Gaussian Blur”, hit the icon that forces the horizontal and vertical blur amounts to be locked. Adjust the values so that the horizontal is bigger than the vertical. I’ve been using ~20-25 for vertical and ~25-30 for horizontal for a 1600×1100 photo. Adjust up for bigger images. Hit “OK” to blur.

    5. Then repeat step #1 expanding the selection above and beyond the original area about 10% of the width of the image. Meaning, select the original “in focus area” and some of the area you just blurred.

    6. Repeat step #2

    7. Repeat step #3

    8. “Filter -> Re-Show ‘Gaussian Blur'”, increase the amount of blur in both directions about 25% and hit “OK”.

    Repeat #5-9 until you hit the top and bottom edges of the image. Each time you’ll pick a smaller area to blur, and blur it more.

    Essentially it’s a way to blur the image more and more the farther away from the band that you want to stay in focus. The feathering makes the transitions smooth enough to appear continuous. Here’s an example of a Florence cityscape using that process. I did it without paying much attention to what I selected, but I think it gives a sense of what the results will look like.

    #22449
    erond
    Participant

    Tilt-shift meets wide-angle. It’s really hard to get a good DoF at wide-angle even with tilt-shift.

    I try to shoot realistic/natural (no special effects in post). but I’m not really feeling the effect with these shots:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/tenesmusphyre/sets/72157619266538411/

    For what it’s worth… I like them, especially the first two.

    I’ll second that. Have you been using the tilt-shift website or doing everything manually in photoshop/gimp? I think I’ve been getting better results with the tilt-shift website than through gimp, but that could just be because I haven’t gotten the process for this in gimp down all that well yet.

    Neither. I’ve been using an actual tilt/shift lens (Canon TS-E 24mm). It just seems like the innate huge DoF of a wide-angle makes it hard to get narrow DoF even using the tilt and shift features. Of course, I could also be using the lens wrong. 🙂

    I touched-up the red train with a gradient-mask blur in Gimp:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/tenesmusphyre/3601791637/

    I think it does look a little bit better, but it offends my desire for “natural” images.

    #22450
    Curious
    Participant

    I think it does look a little bit better, but it offends my desire for “natural” images.

    it does look better and while i agree with the desire for natural images ……. well what are they? i’ve done both film processing and printing and post processing in digital and as you well know there is no real natural image. not if one defines natural as what the eye sees.

    this manipulated shot looks most like a train set instead of a train station. and naturally that’s what you wanted, right? 🙂

    #22451
    mopsy
    Participant

    Soosh, seeing there seems to be some leeway being permitted for your theme, would it be permisable to enter a tilt-shift photo that was originally HDR? I have not previously submitted it and it looks great with the added tilt-shift technique.

    #22452
    Elsinore
    Keymaster

    HDR and tilt shift fakes are two very different manipulations. I don’t think we should allow HDR for this one. Just my 2 cents.

    #22453
    soosh
    Participant

    I’d say no, because I think the HDR would add to the not-real look and it’s kind of last-minute so not everyone necessarily has time to o out and do an HDR image. Also that would open it up to other things like lucisart treatments http://www.lucisart.com/lucis-art3-artist-gallery/lucis-art-3-gallery.htm that would also make the scenes look more staged.

    I will say that I’d be in favor of a week where any of the various Holga, Polaroid, Tilt-shift, Photoshop Filters, HDR, any kind of manipulation short of adding visual elements that weren’t there in the original scene would be allowed. A kind of software free for all.

    #22454
    erond
    Participant

    How creative can we get with local adjustments? Is “no spot adjustments” in full force, but you can do something like a gradient-mask blur or, in keeping with how a true T/S lens actually changes the focal plane, you you selectively mask/adjust the image to give the same effect (e.g. a really tall building will have the top blurred with global processing, but a T/S lens would keep it mostly in focus).

    #22455
    soosh
    Participant

    I think with the blur/sharpen it’s pretty much wide open. I can’t see trying to rule on which bits are allowed and which aren’t. We’re going all the way down the slippery slope.

    #22456
    Elsinore
    Keymaster

    “No spot adjustments” isn’t really in force any longer with the rules revisions from last year. You’re allowed to make spot treatments now as a general rule as long as it’s not to add/subtract major image elements. So dodging/burning, blur/sharpen, contrast, etc can be a local or global adjustment. Minor retouching (removing blemishes, fixing dead pixels, etc) is also allowed. With this contest, since we’re trying to recreate t/s miniature fakes with or without software assistance, I’d say any adjustment you make that recreates that look should be fair game.

    #22457
    Elsinore
    Keymaster

    I will say that I’d be in favor of a week where any of the various Holga, Polaroid, Tilt-shift, Photoshop Filters, HDR, any kind of manipulation short of adding visual elements that weren’t there in the original scene would be allowed. A kind of software free for all.

    I like that idea; submit it on the themes board?

    #22458
    mopsy
    Participant

    I will say that I’d be in favor of a week where any of the various Holga, Polaroid, Tilt-shift, Photoshop Filters, HDR, any kind of manipulation short of adding visual elements that weren’t there in the original scene would be allowed. A kind of software free for all.

    I like that idea; submit it on the themes board?

    Me too. I’ll just put the photo in question on the back burner in hopes I can use it for Soosh’s next suggestion of a software free for all!

    #22459
    soosh
    Participant

    I will say that I’d be in favor of a week where any of the various Holga, Polaroid, Tilt-shift, Photoshop Filters, HDR, any kind of manipulation short of adding visual elements that weren’t there in the original scene would be allowed. A kind of software free for all.

    I like that idea; submit it on the themes board?

    Done.

    #22460
    erond
    Participant

    Tilt shift with tiltshiftmaker:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/tenesmusphyre/3609055879/

    With selective masking in Gimp:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/tenesmusphyre/3609055871/

    The Gimp version needs some fine-tuning, but compare the two tall buildings in the middle of the image.

    #22461
    justkat
    Participant

    “No spot adjustments” isn’t really in force any longer with the rules revisions from last year. You’re allowed to make spot treatments now as a general rule as long as it’s not to add/subtract major image elements. So dodging/burning, blur/sharpen, contrast, etc can be a local or global adjustment. Minor retouching (removing blemishes, fixing dead pixels, etc) is also allowed. With this contest, since we’re trying to recreate t/s miniature fakes with or without software assistance, I’d say any adjustment you make that recreates that look should be fair game.

    *sigh* always the last one to learn these things. i never thought to go back and look at the rules once i read ’em. i’ve been sticking to the more strict rules as they were when i came on board. i don’t know if i’m going to change my ways now though, even if my votes suffer; i learn more about photography that way, if less about gimp/photoshop.

    #22462
    Elsinore
    Keymaster

    You aren’t the only one…I didn’t realize until well after the fact that several people hadn’t seen the announcements or discussion or vote. And honestly, other than one photo where I spot burned something that was in the middle of some glare, I haven’t really changed what I do with my stuff since the rules changed.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 123 total)
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