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caradoc
ParticipantI like all three of them, but #3 could probably have used a little more composition so as not to clip his arm off.
#1 is definitely my favorite of this bunch.
caradoc
ParticipantI think the key light should be higher and diffused a bit (at least find a way to get rid of the ugly shadow of his nose), and it looks like it’s overexposing a bit. The idea is very good though.
At least part of the overexposure was deliberate for this particular shot – the sunlight behind him was bringing up certain flaws that I was trying to hide with more light (decreasing the contrast that was blowing his stretch marks and acne all out of proportion.)
To get the key light higher would have required a 12-foot light stand, given where he was positioned on the stairs. I unfortunately didn’t have a way to push it up there.
Thank you for the comments, though – they’re exactly what I’m looking for. If I were to reshoot this, I’d probably not push as much overexposure as I did and simply retouch the photos in post to lose the acne and stretch marks.
What about this one?
caradoc
ParticipantI like the “zig-zag” bursts. There weren’t nearly as many at the Tempe Town Lake show as I’d wished.
caradoc
ParticipantNice shots, 3Horn.
PPG – there’s a post in this thread with all of my shot info, but it was all ISO 100, f/5-f/11, 2-10 seconds per exposure.
caradoc
ParticipantGot links to the bigger versions? Mine were all shot at ISO100 – higher ISOs can contribute to the “grainy” look.
caradoc
ParticipantNo… no. Those don’t suck.
caradoc
ParticipantI really like #3 there, Elsinore.
caradoc
Participantcaradoc, those are amazing what lens/settings did you use?
I was using the Nikon kit lens, 18-135mm, set to 18mm (widest it’ll go), and varying between f/5 and f/11 for exposures between 2 seconds and 10 seconds each, on a Manfrotto 3001N tripod with a Bogen 3265 head on it.
The sweet spot seems to be f/5 for five seconds for most of what I was shooting.
The exposure for the fireworks themselves is based on aperture, since they’re a point-source of light, and they’re constantly in motion. So dragging the shutter is only going to affect how long the trails are and how many bursts you capture in a given exposure.
Rule of thumb: any exposure that’s longer than 1/30, I’ll either use a tripod or brace the camera on something that isn’t moving. Also, any exposure longer than 1/focal length, same rule. So, if I were shooting with the zoom out at 135mm, but needed to shoot 1/60 to get the exposure, I’d be using the tripod.
Before you buy, you’ll want to read Thom Hogan’s article on buying a tripod. I didn’t, and it cost me a lot more than it should have if I’d done it right the first time.
caradoc
ParticipantAwesome shots!
Couldn’t you just convince her buy giving her the flowers right after you shoot them?
Maybe start shooting chocolate and bubble bath stuff and teddy bears…That’s an idea, but the timing’s a little off.
Those particular flowers came in a bouquet sent by our veterinarian expressing their condolences on Sarah’s death last Friday.
So, I think I’m probably going to hold off on more flowers. The rest of it, well, I think I can swing it.
caradoc
Participantcaradoc
ParticipantI’m just a little leery of posting images of actual keys that I use. It’s not all that hard to make a copy of a key from an image – or at least have some idea of the target lock’s structure if you’re planning on making bumpkeys.
Do electronic keys count?
caradoc
ParticipantThanks, everyone.
There’s a bit more of a “memorial” kind of thing out on my Myspace page.
caradoc
ParticipantThat’ll do, PPG. That’ll do.
🙂
caradoc
Participantcaradoc
ParticipantHeck, ball bungee cords work wonders in holding flashes in places they weren’t intended to be.
I’ve also used an Ultrapod II to strap an extra flash to nearby objects:
If there’s nothing to strap it to, the Ultrapod unfolds into a miniature tripod. Handy enough that I keep one in my bag at all times (unless I’m using it, which is difficult if it stays in the bag.)
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