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Analogy
Participantso you’re going to buy me a replacement for my 13 month old Maxxum7D? sweet … 🙂
Not until after I replace my 8-month-old 30D. =D
Analogy
ParticipantRe: Sensor cleaning, in this day and age cameras without automatic sensor cleaning are obsolete. If you’re in the entry level market get a Rebel XTi, otherwise wait for the 40D.
Re: Histogram, start keeping your photoshop histogram open to get used to reading them. In general you want to keep the histogram fairly level, too much of a slope toward either end means you’re over/underexposing. Of course, this is a gross oversimplification and the real shape you want out of a histogram really depends on your subject matter. I mostly just read the histogram to make sure my highlights are registering at just below clipping. Clipping the highlights means losing tonal information, but pegging the highlights too low means I’ll end up with grain after I bring the image back up in post.
Re: White balance. Auto white balance rarely fails me, and if you’re shooting raw you don’t really need to worry about getting it perfect in the field anyway. The only place auto white consistently performs poorly is indoors where Canon has set AWB’s lower color temperature bound far too high, resulting in orange-looking interiors. I will usually go into K white balance here, setting it to 2000K. The only time I do a full manual white balance is in situations with unusual color. Oh, and when I have the luxury of being able to sit down and go through Canon’s clumsy manual WB procedure.
Re: RAW, Canon includes a pretty decent (if basic) RAW conversion program with the camera. It’ll give you everything you absolutely need. Recent versions of Photoshop also come with their RAW tool which also offers some decent basic correction. If you really want to get serious about digital photography, however, you’ll want a full photo workflow program. I personally use DxO Optics and it offers enough features that it is extremely rare that I will need to use anything else. Photoshop only gets used for picture manipulation such as spot treatments, compositing, etc.
Honestly, however, 99% of my shooting is JPG. It’s much faster and easier to work with in post, and if you know how to get your pictures right in the camera you don’t really need the extra lattitude of RAW. I only shoot RAW when I know I am going to need the extra fidelity in post or if I have a very good reason to put up with the extra processing time.
Analogy
ParticipantI think RAID 5 might be a little complex for a battery-conscious device to be worrying about. If you’re that worried, put a laptop in a backpack with EOS Utility and run a USB cable back into your laptop. And don’t cheap out on memory cards, get reliable brands. At a baseball game one day a sports photog I’m friends with stopped by my TV camera asking if I had a spare memory card with me ’cause the Kingston card he bought only very recently (within a week I think?) had crapped out. This guy was shooting with a 1DMk2N and was cheaping out on CF cards! So the lesson is, just don’t do it.
Analogy
ParticipantOooh I missed those announcements. 40D looks nice, it seems like they addressed just about every issue I’ve had with the 30D.
Auto ISO is huge, every time I shoot in variable light I’ve wanted to be able to tell the camera “in Av mode, set the ISO to keep the shutter speed faster than this.”
10.1 mp is okay, but I’m really not begging for more resolution than I already have. What I want more is cleaner high ISOs. The 1DMk3 has a clean 6400 ISO. If I could get an 8.2 mp sensor with 6400 ISO, doesn’t have to be as clean as the 1DMk3, I’d be a happy guy.
Improved LCD and live view is okay, but honestly even a 20D LCD would be fine for me. All I use LCD for is menus and checking sharpness. I don’t really need live view, especially if there’s no AF. A live view with AF I could imagine using when giving the camera to the non-photographers who are always telling me “How do I see the picture? You mean I have to look through a VIEWFINDER?!” What I want more is a better image review interface. I saw a sports photog reviewing images once and he was able to zoom in to 100% in less than a second using the top dial. I want that feature, having to hold down the zoom buttons is too slow for fast-paced shooting situations.
Borrowing the custom exposure modes from the 5D is huge. If I could set a different auto ISO threshold with each custom exposure setting, I could use, say, setting 1 with the wide angle, setting 2 with the standard, setting 3 with the tele so when I switch lenses, I just flick the switch and I’m back to shooting.
Highlight tone priority is huge. No more underexposing and bringing it up in post to handle scenes with bright highlights.
Dust prevention is huge. No more risking a scratched sensor to get that annoying dust out. I once cleaned my sensor the morning of a shoot but since I was switching lenses all day I saw some dust in the shots near the end.
6.5fps is huge. I’m intrigued by the option to go 8fps with the D300 though. I wonder how it would compare with the 1DMk2N. Nikon’s D3 also looks like it could be very competitive with the 1DMk3. At first I thought ISO 25600 was a typo, I’m definitely curious as to whether it will be even remotely usable or if Nikon’s simply trying to outdo Canon in the numbers game. Either way I have a feeling I’m going to start seeing more Nikon shooters on the sidelines in the next couple years.
1DsMk3 looks like it would be great for the advertising folk who need to fill magazine pages. 21MP without dropping the price of a Lexus on a Hasselblad system. I’m suprised that they don’t offer a 6400 ISO option, though perhaps the pixel density is too high to get it clean enough. I’ll bet most of the people who buy this camera are shooting with flashes anyway so they won’t go anywhere near the higher ISOs.
The one feature I wish I wish I wish Canon would give us is the ability to easily do a manual white balance. Shooting video I’m used to holding up a white sheet of paper and pressing a button, boom I’m white balanced. Canon forces us to switch to RAW, take a picture of some white paper, go into the menu and navigate to the white balance selection menu, select that picture, then go into playback and delete the picture and set shooting mode back to JPG (if you’re a mostly JPG shooter like me). It’s freaking ridiculous. Here’s my proposal: Holding down the WB button for 2 seconds automatically switches to manual white balance and uses the next shot you take to set the manual white balance without writing it to the memory card. The “old” way would still be available if you want to keep several white balance shots on file.
Analogy
ParticipantWow, Canon’s going to have to pull some huge tricks out of their sleeves with the 40D to compete with this.
Analogy
ParticipantIs the entire Fark.com website down for anybody else?
Analogy
ParticipantEh, just take off with one engine, it’ll still fly. Mostly.
Analogy
ParticipantNice find!
Analogy
ParticipantIf it’s expense keeping you from shooting with strobes, AlienBees B800 strobes with radio triggers are about the same price as SB800s, just with a lot more power. I can rent a generator to power three of them for about $30 for 4 hours, or $45 for the day.
Analogy
ParticipantJust curious, how do you fill 2 GB cards in a day? I can see doing it with event photography where you’re clicking away madly, but but for posed and lit photography it just doesn’t make sense to me. I tend to go for getting the right shot in just a couple takes than shooting a lot and sorting it out in post. My keeper:shot count ratio tends to be pretty high as a result, typically on the order of 1:3 or 1:4.
I can see what you were going for with the second pic of Christina, but I think the perspective should be higher (as a rule I don’t like the horizon to go below the subject’s waist level) and the hard shadows on her leg and the lower right portion of the frame are distracting. I think you could have had the on-camera SB-800 contribute some light to the scene to fill them in a little, as well as moving the other two flashes around to get those shadows out of the way. A hot shoe extension cord works well for getting the on-camera flash a little further away from the lens so it’s not so direct.
When you’re working with fill flash in daylight you’ll either want an ND filter to get more aperture or choose a background that will look very good when it’s all in focus.
Personally for outdoor shots I swear by using large studio strobes and a generator, that way you have enough power to use a softbox or other light modifier to avoid hard shadows. Yes it’s a lot to haul around, but if I’m just going for one really great image in one location rather than moving around to a bunch of locations, or if I have a lot of time it is 100% worth it.
Analogy
ParticipantSweeeeeeet, how’d you take them? Just keep taking pictures until lighting shows up in the right place? The sky’s too bright in the first one (damn light pollution) but the second is perfect.
Analogy
ParticipantAnalogy
ParticipantI found a power inverter around the house and plugged it into the cigarette lighter, it didn’t supply enough juice to power the flash.
Analogy
ParticipantI’ve been spending the day preparing and doing test shots to try out some lighting concepts. One thing I’m trying out for the first time is using flash to compete with sunlight, not just for fill but to actually try and outdo the sun.
This is with a 400W studio flash that I have. Full power about 4 feet from my face. Exposure is f/22 (!) at 1/250, shooting into the part of the sky directly around the sun. Shutter is limited to 1/250 because I have to sync with a flash. It works pretty well but could use some more fill light, which is why I’m borrowing another 400W head and an 800W head from a friend of mine who does portraits, and that should be enough light to do just about anything I want.
The real trick will be powering it in the field. My car has a power outlet in the dashboard but I’m not sure whether it can power all three flashes. I’ve already tried it with just my 400W and it worked as long as I didn’t fire it again too soon after the last shot. I’m picking up the other flashes a bit later and that’s when I’ll find out whether I need to rent a small generator.
Analogy
ParticipantIt looks like Bibble creates their own lens profiles by having people send in test shots they took themselves. I’m not sure how much I trust that methodology. DxO doesn’t support as many lenses, but at least I know that the corrections will be perfect.
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