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Analogy
ParticipantI’ll see what I can do XenPix. I can tell you right now though that lines are very straight except at the very wide end. 14-22mm is pretty much perfect. 10mm shows very minimal barrel distortion, nothing a little photoshop can’t fix. It’s also got a lot of vignetting at wide-open aperture.
Personally I use DxO Optics Pro so I never see these problems except in the source image. The folks at DxO Labs have measured the distortion, vignetting, CA, etc. characteristics of a ton of lenses and the software can precisely “undo” them, resulting in a (technically) perfect image. It’s also got some fantastic color correction features.
Analogy
ParticipantOh, if y’all are interested in seeing some of the stuff I do for this station, they stream their news and sports shows here. Right now the current sports show is a season retrospective ’cause high school sports aren’t starting up again till the fall, and it’s all so long ago I don’t remember what I shot, but the current news show has a story I shot about 2:55 into the stream.
Analogy
ParticipantThat second shot looks good.
I think pushing the exposure in the first shot could have worked better if your model was wearing darker clothing. Light gray/white clothes aren’t very tolerant of overexposure, especially on digital. The shorts especially are really showing obvious blowouts.
As for the position of the light, meh. You really should have found a way to position it differently, even if it meant putting your flash on a pole and holding it out. That shadow from his nose and really the whole lit-from-underneath vibe really kill the picture. Even diffusing it with an umbrella or something could have helped a lot.
One thing you can do to lessen the harshness of the sun is get a large diffuser and put your subject in its “shadow.” Making the apparent size of your light source bigger does wonders to hide skin problems.
Analogy
ParticipantI think the key light should be higher and diffused a bit (at least find a way to get rid of the ugly shadow of his nose), and it looks like it’s overexposing a bit. The idea is very good though.
Analogy
Participant
What the hell?
Analogy
Participantcongrats Analogy, bet the prizes were a lot like the farktography ones too 🙂
Even BETTER than Farktography. We get a PLAQUE. To hang on our WALL. IT’S TOTALLY AWESOME.
Since we pretty consistently win 3-4 awards a year from these people our entire entrance lobby at the station is just covered in plaques. This is the first year that one of the shows I worked on got an award though.
Analogy
ParticipantI really wish I’d been able to catch a real fireworks show now. =( Great shots everyone!
Analogy
ParticipantWorth every penny. Trust me on this one. You won’t regret it.
Analogy
ParticipantReducing the distance between the back of the lens and the camera will reduce the magnification.
Analogy
Participantwhat’s the aperture range on that bad boy analogy?
f/3.5-f/4.5. I kinda wish it had the f/2.8 like its close cousin the 16-35mm, which has the same field of view on FF cameras (even uses the same hood). A huge aperture isn’t too important though since I can get away with handholding this lens at 1/15 shutter:
I mostly want the f/2.8 for freezing action… Even the extra 2/3 stop from 3.5 to 2.8 can make a huge difference.
Awesome!
Thanks, I absolutely love this lens for taking pics of the sky. This lens gives me pics that I used to need stitching software to get. No more!
Analogy
ParticipantAnalogy
ParticipantPerformance for what, might I ask?
Yup, the lines are very straight, just a little bent at 10, and just about perfect at 14 and up. Using software I can get them perfect at all focal lengths.
If you get a superwide like the 10-22 or 12-24 and wind up getting a full frame, you’ve got a couple options. First is to keep your 30D and bring it out whenever you want to take a wide angle photo. Second is to basically use the 12-24 as a prime lens on your full frame, since 18mm on a full frame looks almost as wide as 10mm on a 30D.
What would throw me off about the Tokina is the backwards zoom twist. I know it seems silly but the Canon and Fujinon lenses I’ve use on video cameras for many years now zoom in when you twist counter-clockwise, and Canon still lenses do the same. Everyone else, however, zooms in when you twist clockwise, and that throws me off really really bad. It’s hard to break force of habit. =(
Analogy
ParticipantWow, quick response. Do you live in the forums Elsinore? =D
It is indeed sweet from what little I’ve played with it so far. I’m already seeing huge possibilities for the field of view this thing gives me. I can already see it being a great architecture lens, very straight lines (they’re slightly bent in the picture due to a setting I used in post). Maybe I should call up some realtors and see if they need someone to photograph houses, heh.
Analogy
ParticipantBlocking the flow of traffic should be the crime, simply using the tripod shouldn’t. The former is the problem, people who can responsibly do the latter aren’t.
Analogy
ParticipantAre monopods a third of the price? I mean, it’s only one leg, so it’s only a third as risky, right?
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