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That’s where it becomes so important to use the old-fashioned lenses where you can control aperture on the lens itself. It’d suck to try this conversion now where you’d be stuck with the highest f-stop on the lens.

Actually: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/724050-REG/Novoflex_EOSNIK_NT_EOS_NIK_NT_Lens_Adapter_for.html

I assume there are also cheaper chinese clones out there too. However, I don’t think the apertures are click-stopped or anything, you basically have to work by eye to get the DOF you want….

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Basically, you would have to submit pics of the kids at Disney or something!

Damn, back to the drawing board….

😉

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The thing about speed graphics is there are a bunch of different ways you can use them – ground glass focusing, rangefinder, or old school press photographer style (set the focus to 10′ or so, F11 with flashbulbs….). You can pick between focal plane and leaf shutter too…

This may be useful: http://www.graflex.org

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I hear it takes Leica lenses…therein lies the rub.

Only with an adapter, the lens mount is its own new one (and the native fuji lenses weren’t in the same price league as Leica ones) But in terms of using old lenses the NEX and Micro 4/3 bodies will do that too, for a ton less $$. I’ve used a bunch of old Minolta and Canon RF lenses on my NEX 3 no problem, especially once they updated the firmware to allow focus peaking.

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I especially like how they’re giving you advice on focal length….

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sleeping that’s all well and good if you need a major repair – but if you just need say, a new door for the SD slot, or rubber for your plug interface, do you want to have to send it to another state for a 3 week turnaround on something you could fix yourself?

No, what they’re doing still sucks. I just don’t think the petition is worded very accurately is all…

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You want to convert to SRGB when exporting them, basically. Photo editing applications are color-space aware, but the Windows viewers and most browsers aren’t.

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Hmm…

While I don’t much like the move they’re making, this is making it sound like Nikon is trying to restrict their parts to their own internal repair folks. That’s not true – the “Nikon Authorized” repair places are not the same thing as Nikon USA. There’s a list of them here:

http://www.nikonusa.com/Service-And-Support/Nikon-Authorized-Repair-List.page

Incidentally, these places can actually be better option for warranty service than going to Nikon USA directly, especially if there is one local to you. But Sanford (my local one, who I have heard good things about but haven’t had to actually use) will take things by mail too, and I imagine that’s true for many of them….

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OK… so I’ve got the room to take small chances with Nikon/Nikkor lenses since 1980?

AI was introduced in 1977. Any lens made since then can mount safely on any Nikon body, and most of them will be at least somewhat usable (the exceptions are some newer lenses on older bodies, where the aperture can’t be set, but there’s no risk of damage in that case)

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Again, the shorthand is to look for the little silver square-ish thing?

The silver square in the photo is the tab on the camera (an F3 in that case) that engages with the longer tab on the lens’s aperture ring. Your D5100 won’t have one, that’s not one of the models that can meter with AI lenses.

I just looked at the 2 lenses I have for my D5100, and neither has the rectangle

Yeah, G type lenses don’t have an aperture ring at all, but unlike pre-AI lenses they’re built with clearance for the tabs on the camera body.

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So, I guess i should stick to the Nikon or Nikkor brands if I don’t have paperwork specifically addressing compatibility?

All the terminology is a bit arcane, but it’s actually pretty simple to tell if a lens is compatible by just looking at the aperture ring. I put a post in the hardware forum with the details.

the Canon FD mount won’t fit on the EF bodies either. The old register distance was 42mm and the EOS is 44mm, so unless you can sink the classic 50mm f/0.95 into your body by 2 inches, you’re out of luck.

Actually, the 50/0.95 was a rangefinder lens that only mounts to a special flange on the Canon 7 (they can be modified to Leica M or C mount though)
http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/lens/s/data/50-85/s_50_095.html

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Private page :/

Fixed. It’s not that exciting though…

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Wait. What’s the acronym for thread derailment?

ILWTTIG

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Basically, never use a pre-AI lens on your dSLR body.

This depends on the body now. The new lower-end cameras which only support metering with G lenses (D3000 etc) can mount most non-AI lenses unmodified.

You can have a good camera shop professionally convert a pre-AI lens to AI or AIS (but is the juice really worth the squeeze at that point?), so long as it’s not one of the lenses with clearance issues.

It’s actually not very complicated to do, you just have to create enough clearance for the aperture feeler (the little lever next to the lens mount that detects if a non-G lens is set to minimum aperture).

http://www.chr-breitkopf.de/photo/aiconv.en.html

But unless you’re going to use it on a film camera or a higher-end model that supports AI metering, you don’t need to worry so much about determining the correct indexing he describes there, you just need clearance for the feeler.

Just don’t do it to anything with any collecting value….

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I was thinking of the 24/1.4 as a replacement for my Sigma 28/1.8; the sigma is not that great a performer wide open, and 24mm is my favorite focal length for a wideangle prime….

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