[LeicaLens]

Thanks, LeicaLens!

By the way, how did you manage to get the film spool to wind on each frame correctly? What I mean is, how did you calculate the frame size to crank-turning ratio?

And I really love the fact it is done with Lego.

[LeicaLens]

You definitely can’t get the same exact behavior with regards to DOF and field of view when you change format, but it’s not quite that drastic – the DOF for a 25mm on 4/3rds will be somewhere between a 25mm and 50mm on full frame (probably be somewhere around the same as a 35mm).

I can’t say I measured the DOF scientifically, so you might well be right. I just held up my DSLR Olympus with a 25mm (supposed to be equivalent to 50mm lens on a 35mm film camera) and looked through the finder, then did the same with my OM-1 with a 50mm on it. So scientific it certainly wasn’t.

I just compared the 25mm DSLR lens with my 28mm OM lens, and the DOF seems pretty similar. By DOF here, I mean the distance the object in the viewfinder appears to be at, or, if you like, the ratio at which the object (in this case the TV) appears to fill the frame.
Hey, science isn’t my strong point!

Incidentally, at the same ISO settings and aperture settings, the two cameras give pretty different shutter speed readings for equivalent lenses (25mm on the DSLR, 50mm on the SLR).
Again, this wasn’t a particularly rigourously conducted scientific test 😉

[LeicaLens]

Is there any reason why family and pets aren’t allowed?

Not that I have a problem with it, I just wondered if there was any particular reason, such as a avoiding a direction you don’t want the competition to go in.

[LeicaLens]

http://photos.imageevent.com/ulle17/fark/Oil-on-Water-5.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/ulle17/fark/Smoke-11.jpg (crop the candle)

You should combine these two for Smoke on the Waaaaaaaaaaaattttttteeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

And fire on the ice (or was it “in the eyes”?)

[LeicaLens]

That is very, very cool.

[LeicaLens]

Olympus point-and-shoots are supposed to be rugged. However, I think they all use proprietary XD cards, which are a bit slow. Also, cheaper card readers don’t have XD slots, but if you are going to load your pictures directly from the camera to computer, that won’t be a problem.

If you are looking at a second-hand DSLR instead, Olympuses are not a bad deal. I don’t live in the US, so I am not sure about pricing there, but I have seen second-hand E-410s with a 14-42mm F3.5.5.6 standard lens for 21000 yen (250 dollars?).

The E510 is about the same secondhand, and comes with built-in image stabilization. Also, Olympus lenses tend to be cheaper and lighter than Canon or Nikon lenses because they don’t require the IS in the lens.

Furthermore, Olympus DSLRS use CF cards, although some use CF and XD (like my E-520), so you don’t have the problem of the proprietary XD card. Also, they are pretty easy to use, and being able to set the controls through the back panel is pretty nifty.

On the downside, Olympuses don’t handle noise any near as well as Canons and Nikons, and the image quality isn’t, I think, as good. Also, except for the higher end Olympuses, they only have three focussing points, which means the AF is poor in certain situations. The E-3, E-30, E-620 are the exceptions to this (and hopefully the new model they look set to announce will be as well…).

Also, the Fourthirds system is marketed as being “double” 35mm film, meaning that, for example, a 50mm lens functions as a 100mm lens, due to cropping. However, I don’t think this is true. I have a F1.4 25mm Leica-licensed lens (hence my handle here) for my Olympus DSLR which is not at all equivalent to my F1.4 50mm zuiko lens I have on my OM-1 film camera. With the Leica lens, the depth or perspective is the same as a 25mm lens on a film camera, but the width is the same as a 50mm.

In conclusion, I will be sticking with Olympus DSLRs (they have some great lenses), but if I won the lottery, I would be buying myself a Canon 5D Mark II with sexy lenses to match (the F1.2 85mm, anyone?).

Just a few thoughts.

[LeicaLens]

So Furries are OK too?

[LeicaLens]

This will be HUGE.

So, how does one make their sunset/sunrise photo stand out from the crowd?

Boobies, of course!

This is going to be tough one. I’ve lots of ‘good’ sunset pictures, but I can’t say I have any ‘great’ ones.

[LeicaLens]

Ooh, awesome. I am going to be in Tokyo this weekend, so I can easily take a picture for this…

The big pedestrian crossing in Shibuya? 😀

[LeicaLens]

I need new glasses, I read the theme description as “Silent & Deadly”

That could be tough to photograph.

[LeicaLens]

This theme is going to see a lot of stunning entries. It isn’t the first sunset/sunrise competition, is it?

[LeicaLens]

I love U-Man‘s ribbon candy. baka-san‘s tight whities not so much….

What has been seen cannot be unseen.

[LeicaLens]

Got it. Thanks. Now I’m off to do a sundance. Here, I hope, are couple of pictures of it, for what it’s worth. It’s quite stylish, so I really hope it still works.

[LeicaLens]

I don’t know that particular model, but in general there are probably 2 needles on the display. One moves with the light level, and th other you turn to match it. When the needles match, the dial indicates the correct exposure. Depending, you may also need to turn a ring on the main dial to set the ISO.

If it doesn’t take batteries, it’s using a selenium cell to generate a tiny current based on the amount of incoming light. Those tend to degrade over time, but with handheld meters there’s a better chance of it still working than the ones built in to cameras, which get exposed to a lot more light. You need to check it against a good meter before trusting it, though (or you can get an estimate by using the sunny 16 rule – if it indicates 1/125 & F16 @ ISO 100 in direct sunlight it’s close to correct.

Thanks sleeping. I will try the sunny day reading…as soon as we get some decent sunshine here. Should I point it upwards towards the sun when I do that reading, or is it for normal reflected sunlight?

[LeicaLens]

Nice. Like the lighting around the arches.

[Author]

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