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sleeping
ParticipantThanks!
Oh, one lesson learned – keep the light out of your viewfinder! With a 6 stop ND on the front, the stray daylight coming in from the eyepiece can play havoc on your metering. I thought my camera might be going nuts until I worked out what was going on….
sleeping
ParticipantSuggestion 1: Pay attention to the background even if it is out of focus – 1 & 2 have a distracting red blob in the background. 5 and 6 have berry clusters in the background that are being chopped off at the edge of the frame. Those ould probably have been eliminated by moving the camera an inch or so.
Suggestion 2: If you can’t come pretty close to filling the frame with the subject, generally don’t put it in the center of the photo. Take a look at 11 – you have a relationship between the in focus berries in the center and the out of focus berries on the left, but that’s creating a lot of dead space on the right with nothing going on. Ideally you’d want to spread that relationship across much more of the image. (You could also crop it, of course, but it would be better not to have to.)
sleeping
Participant80A to shoot daylight film in incandescent light I think. 85’s go the other way (I used one shooting outside when I found some really cheap tungsten slide film).
If the lighting is really bad you can always try converting it to BW… mixed fluorescent and incandescent you often can’t do much else with it.
sleeping
ParticipantDXO Optics can do stuff like that (if they have created modules for your camera/lens combination): http://www.dxo.com/us/photo/dxo_optics_pro/optics_geometry_corrections
sleeping
Participantunfortunately the EV+/- is menu driven unlike the 7D which has a convenient knob.
It should also work with the +/- compensation button & command dial, assuming it’s like most other nikons
sleeping
ParticipantYeah, but that “46 Megapixels” is pretty much complete BS. What they’re doing is fully recording all 3 color channels at each photosite instead of using a Bayer array. The linear resolution is 15 Megapixels or so…
sleeping
ParticipantA couple B sides from out in the woods
http://www.flickr.com/photos/awrose/5002281141/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/awrose/5002886814/And this one which I like a lot, but doesn’t work real well at 640px wide:
sleeping
ParticipantI have a nikon one, 24-70/2.8. It was kind of disappointing in person, though.
September 22, 2010 at 10:13 pm in reply to: Give Me Reasons why people should buy the Farktography Book! #33263sleeping
ParticipantWE hAvE tHE caT It WiLL be reTurneD unHarMed if yOU buY thE BOOk
(sorry, couldn’t help it)
sleeping
ParticipantI’m having a similar problem. I can’t decide which of these six I like best (or least).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/38736385@N02/sets/72157624863945111/
3, 1, 6 (or 2)
sleeping
ParticipantI say cut Gumby in favor of the lasers. /
Concurred
sleeping
ParticipantDecisions, decisions. Please and thank you.
I like the second one a *lot* better. So you should probably post the first one ;-).
sleeping
ParticipantWell, it’ll only work 100% properly with AF lenses if you add a metering prong to the aperture ring. An FM2 would probably be more convenient, but the name just doesn’t have the same ring, I guess….
sleeping
Participantyears ago I heard FTN all the the time,
Heh. ETA: Sometimes I think whoever designed Eaton’s logo was disgruntled ex-navy
Oh, man, I guess you should get yourself one of these.
sleeping
ParticipantYou know, if you need to switch lenses in a hurry sometimes that extra second to switch it around could mean missing a shot? I know I’ve done it a few times…
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