@swampa
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swampa
ParticipantSorry to be a picky person, but aren’t soosh’s first and third entry invalid as they have a greater then 2 pixel border around them?
ParticipantI don’t know how much use this is going to be with the Olympus (I’m assuming you are using that from another thread) but here are my concert settings.
ISO: Auto with a max iso of 1600 (some recommend only going to 800) and a minimum shutter speed of 1/80s
Aperture: As high as possible! 1.4 lenses are great for this with 2.8 being about the minimum I can use due to the available light (but this will also depend on the venue. Most are dark with not much lighting but I have once managed to get away using a 3.6-5 lens before due to a lot of stage lights)
Shutter Speed: Anything over 1/50s. Everyone is moving so they tend to be fairly blurred under that (not that that is always a bad thing, it just tends to be everything is blurred and not just a hand or instrument)
Focal Point: Set the focal point on the camera to be in the top third or quarter as that will be where the head you are focusing on will be. It stops you needing to move the camera all the time to focus and if you are like me with spot metering, metering off their face instead of their tummy!
Flash: As jpattern said, forget it unless you are right in front of the band (even then I use it sparingly as I find it makes the image look less warm. Good for group shots where you have lowered the aperture though!)
Shooting Mode: Continuous – this can help in situations where the shutter speed is getting low as the first image tends to be blurred thanks to pressing the shutter but the second or third tend to be a lot stiller.
I used these settings at a concert last week – Pictures here
ParticipantI found a heap of dust recently on my sensor, here is what I did:
1) Grabbed my bulb air blower.
2) Put a fresh battery in my camera, took off the lens and set the mirror lockup function on.
3) Held the camera so the lens opening was facing the floor and sat there gently pumping air onto the sensor (and around it in case any dirt was sitting on the edge) for about 30 seconds.That seems to have done the job.
ParticipantOr at least until the size is under 200Kb.
ParticipantI have realised that kit is no substitute for practice……
Lies!! I figure it is like golf, you just buy better stuff to make up for your lack of skill! (It’s what I did! VR lenses to hide the shakes, high ISO and high aperture lenses :P)
Participant1. Wife is a die hard Canon person, so she only wanted to look at Canon cameras and lenses.
I used to think like that too. Most of my lenses are the same brand as the camera but the last one I got was a Sigma lens. I love the colour and clarity it has. I’m glad I changed my mind on this.
4. I am a little vague on the understanding between the f/4 and f/2.8. Sounds like it is the speed of the shutter? Schnee mentioned getting the bigger flash to assist with the f/4 lenses. Am I understanding that right? Another $100 to upgrade that flash, but the prices on the same lense at f/2.8 is about 3 times f/4. For what she is going to be doing, does she need the faster lense or just the better flash?
It isn’t the shutter speed, it is the amount of light the lens lets through. But the more light you have through the faster the shutter speed you can use. For some reason though the number system is backwards, where 2.8 lets in more light than 4 and you had better be in full sunlight if you want to use 32 (or have a tripod)! The other thing the aperture does is control the depth of field. In schnee’s photos you see how the object is in focus but the rest is blurred. The higher the aperture, the more this effect is noticeable. It is really good for portraits as it tends to hide distractions in the background.
5. As to the 5D… Ouch… Please don’t mention that to her…
Don’t worry about that! If she is already taking about the 1D then the 5D is the least of your worries. Wait until she sees the 1Ds Mark III *snickers evily*
ParticipantTwo things.
The first, there is a little dial at the top right corner* of the eye piece that adjusts the focus, make sure you have that set right for your eye sight (that everything looks crystal clear when you look through the view finder).
The second is that yes, this is normal after looking through a view finder for hours. The brain is not used to having two different images coming through at once and does its best to correct the problem hence your vision goes a bit wonky for a while. You shouldn’t need to see an eye doctor unless it continues for a day or so.
* I’m sure it is there but I haven’t played with the Rebel for a while!
ParticipantThanks Elsinore 🙂
Participantsorry the boobies is timing out when I post it >_<
ParticipantParticipantThat was your score for Wallpaper This. The 39 before it matches up with your score for Bridges II.
ParticipantParticipantXenpix – Bigger islands are over-rated 😛
Analogy – Love those photos from Colorado Springs, especially the sky in the arm-shot.
ParticipantI was wondering if that was the case
ParticipantFarktography is doomed! DOOOOOOMED!
I’m gonna sing the doom song now! Doom, doom, doom, doooom, do be do doom, do be do doom, doom, doom, doom, doom. The end!
I will just add, this is an outrage! I should have posted been able to post my sub-par photos by now 😛
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