@ravnostic
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Oh hell. Since it’s generated this much discussion, I’ll put it out there. Orionid deserves as much. But it’s brown. Way. Too. Brown. If, however, ya’ll think it’s fine for the contest, lemme know. I have several shots to choose from. This is the ‘turtle’ shot.
(incidently, related to another thread, taken with the AD lens)
mmmm…bokah….
not. ah-HA-ha.
(I’m actually happy with my other choices; if I put this in, I’d haveta get rid of one of them, and that would be a difficult decision.)
orionid see pic below. Flange with 7 cm c2c spacing is widest part. Unfortunately, the pic shows the fullest retraction of the setup–as pictured, the flange moves
‘up’ from there. I don’t use the whole projector assembly; just what you see in the picture. No threads on either side, but the bottom side as pictured is 52 mm (which fits
well within the 58 mm lens) and up top is 58mm (touches the edges only of the glass on the 62mm telephoto lens.If I unscrew the primary assembly from the body, it seems to be threaded at 50mm diameter, and it seems at 1mm per revolution around the lens. Rather hard to approximate
and I don’t have a micrometer.)
The lens body is 10.3 cm top to bottom. The focal length is 80mm. The gear is attached to the flange, so you can move the lens assembly but not
the lens focal length. The 4 screw holes are 90 deg. apart, and 7 cm center to center on spacing across the flange diameter.The ‘primary’ lenses (glued together somehow) are effectively 40mm in diameter (f/2?) given the opening in the body. The ‘secondary’ mirrors (held
in position with a spacer) are 50mm. Kinda hard to be precise on the focal length, though, as from which lens part do I measure?In taking pics, the assembly is reversable to no ill effect (which helps as I can use one side or the other depending on which lens is on my Canon body
and not actually hit the Canon lenses.)Per Canon’s website and Pythagorus, I get that my sensor diagonal to diagonal is 26.68mm. With just the primary AD portion and my 28-80 set to 80,
I can get this:
That’s at about 6 inches away, and is about 6 cm on the diagonal. With the whole assembly, I can get about 3 inches away, with this result:
May 4 cm on the diagonal. Using my telephoto, though, set at 300, I can get to where the diagonal is 11mm across–but focusing is VERY difficult to do:
I’d be happy with a setup where I can use the primary lens on either Tamron. I’m sure it would be doable, and light enough to use easily.
What I need to know is the diameter and threading on each component.
Would make for one hell of a macro, though, on the 300 if I can get to
use it easily.olavfVery cool link. It’s the lens configuration I have, I may grab the book cited since it’s inexpensive.
My lens doesn’t have a ‘vis paysage’ marking, unfortunately, but does unscrew. Trying it, it makes an effective
macro. I wish I had some of orionid’sskills; I’d try to figure out how to make it mountable by thread to
my camera (a lot less clumsy than what I’ve done).orionid, The Chicagian Jarvis wouldn’t be the maker of the lens; they were in France (in addition to ‘Paris SE III’ on
the body, the crank gear wheel states ‘A.Darlot Opticien Paris’ and there’s the American stamp of ‘Made in Paris’ on the
mount flange as well. The projector box gives me The Henderson-Ames Co, Kalamazoo, Mich as the maker, and based on
the quality/configuration of the large lens, I’d guess they manufactured the rest of the box (it’s pretty inferior to the Darlot).Image taken with lens held up to my Canon, 85mm setting but effectively macro’d:
And another, which is actually my current desktop background (in a bigger res, of course):
Isn’t it though? And, this other bloke signed it, too. I can’t make it out. I figure the first part is ‘A.D.’, as in A. Darlot (like the logo on the lens, etched in brass). But the name? Can’t get it. Here’s pics:
The last is a 2nd lens; can’t make it out as well. Maybe A.D. Paris? But it’d be an awefully funny ‘P’. I can’t find anything on his actual craftmans’ names. It’s most certainly not A.Darlot, though.
