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schnee
ParticipantCool dude. Kata makes some pretty interesting stuff. Did you see all their body armor?
schnee
ParticipantOh and uh..see the mea culpa on your Coke can shot from this week…
Mea cupla, schmea culpa. It’s not like I was being unique.
schnee
ParticipantHere’s a tease:
, and how I did it. (which is back on line now, but may be off line when you read this, whoever ‘you’ are)schnee
Participant🙁
What he said, assuming that what she said was regarding the good kind of nudes.
schnee
ParticipantA couple of more
http://stuckincustoms.com/2006/06/06/548/
http://backingwinds.blogspot.com/2006/10/how-to-create-professional-hdr-images.htmlThat last one is by chakalakasp.
schnee
Participantnp, ‘mofo. it turned out pretty well. part of the difficulty is that the feathery stuff is translucent and, well, feathery. Still, nice breaking down of the image to just the essentials – light, liquid, glass, and feathery stuff.
Next time, try it on a sweep and you’ll loose the edge of the table. My coke can was shot that way (as were my entries in About Time, Power of Two, Everything for a Dollar … I think I need a new gimmick).
schnee
ParticipantI’m not sure why(*), but (a) Proc Tex is pretty cool and (b) drinking.
>clink< (*) I figure it has something to do with y-dayschnee
ParticipantOk, so who’s breaking out the Mentos and Diet for this week? (I’m not, I don’t want to get that sticky…)
*whistles innocently* They were for the Curves contest, honest!
As I was ticking off ideas, I thought “ooohhhh, The Fresh Maker!” But then I figured Zeke would already be there.
I think I chose wisely.
/oh, and it is really hard to get water drop to stick to near-vertical surfaces. glycerin or something would have been better.
schnee
Participantcan you light it from behind? with a reflector card to fill in the front? Given the image you posted, maybe putting a light up high in the back (out of frame) would help. make sure the light doesn’t touch your lens – a deep hood or a gobo would help. I think that making the feathery pulp subtractive to the image (instead of reflective) may reveal them better.
If you could light from below (and to the back), the light would not catch the rim of the glass and the bottle lid so much.
You could also try a side light.
schnee
ParticipantGreat, once again I am referred to as a really bad example.
🙂
LOL
schnee
Participantahhhh. it’s darn hard to match the scores to the contests on that page then.
It was never designed to be “easy” to draw that correlation. The Participation Profile(tm) is meant to give a graphical overview of how a Farktog has participated and since horizontal space is becoming a premium, not every theme is labeled on the x-axis (but every contest’s votes and entries are shown). For a really bad example, take a look at Snug Tight‘s portfolio.
The FSM does not tend to group-by contests, but I have considered it in the past, to reveal those contest that a particular farktog completely pwned (like neontsz and Up-and-Down).
schnee
ParticipantU-man had asked what I meant when I said I “hi-keyed” the watch images to get it to look more like platinum. I don’t know if “hi-key” can be “verbed”, but basically, I over-exposed the image to wash out any non-white colors. That gives the metal a silvery look. I did the same sort of thing to the erasers that I took for the “Everything for a Dollar” theme.
Here is a sampling of the images I took for this theme, with the exposure information (ISO 400 for all)

By schnee, shot with Canon EOS 5D at 2007-11-08. 1/100s @ f/32
By schnee, shot with Canon EOS 5D at 2007-11-06. 1/100s @ f/13
By schnee, shot with Canon EOS 5D at 2007-11-06. 1/200s @ f/10
By schnee, shot with Canon EOS 5D at 2007-11-06. 1/200s @ f/9
By schnee, shot with Canon EOS 5D at 2007-11-06. 1/200s @ f/4.I chose the 2nd from the bottom for display. In the top three, one can see a little bit of red in the shadow behind the watch – that came from the light being reflected from the eraser I used to prop-up the watch (a LEGO assisted as well). As I cranked up the exposure (pushing the histogram to the right), that red got washed out. The middle image (f/10 @1/200) is pretty close to how my eye sees the watch in most viewing conditions. I had considered the bottom image, but ultimately decided it was too abstract. I was really attracted to the completely washed out background and my next attempt along these lines will be to get a completely white background with a well-exposed subject. I may need to throw some direct light at the background to do that.
This set-up had the main light coming in from camera-left and slightly behind the subject. Camera-right was a piece of paper used as a reflector to illuminate the watch dial. The paper is reflected in the dial and appears as a curved white swath along the right edge.
My macro “studio” is about to get hacked up a bit – I need a light port to camera right, and I need better flexibility of the light positioning to camera left.
schnee
ParticipantMan-made? Or would natural vents such as oh, to take a random thought, “volcanoes” be acceptable?
Personally, I vote for “man-made”.
/I get excited when idle_hands gets excited
schnee
Participantyeah, OBO is still broke. Sorry about that.
schnee
ParticipantI, for one, didn’t know that there was a FAP smiley… oh, wait, I see what you did there.
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