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sleeping
Participantsleeping
ParticipantYes, I’m not sure exactly what the optics are behind it, but with focusing screens there’s a tradeoff between brightness and accuracy – darker screens do a better job of indicating focus. There’s also the issue of the split prism blacking out in low light, especially with slower lenses. The katzeye folks I linked to above claim their modern stuff is better than the older technology ones, though, but I haven’t tried one yet….
sleeping
Participantsleeping, I think that split image circle you mention is what my Nikkormat had. I checked out the link. It may be a possibility – have you tried it or know of anyone who has?
No, I keep thinking about having it done, but it’s just expensive enough that I’ve never actually done it….
sleeping
ParticipantIt seems to me that my old Nikkormat had a focusing mechanism that made it really easy to judge focus. But of course that was back when my eyes were 20/20 or better, too.
You can get replacement focusing screens with old school split image circles and/or microprisms for a lot of SLRs, e.g. http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/ (or cheap Chinese ones on ebay). The amount of work installing them, and potential interference with camera functions varies quite a bit with camera model, though.
sleeping
ParticipantNot likely to repeat the results without some rig to hold a pice of screen the right distance from the lens, I reckon. Ah well, been meaning to try that vaseline trick anyway.
The other classic way to get that diffusion effect is to stretch a black stocking over the lens. Vaseline is much harder to get off afterwards….
sleeping
ParticipantJust want to put here for the record that baking soda and vinegar is a weak reaction and really not what I’m going for. Any suggestions for household things to create a bigger reaction?
Add some dish detergent (it makes a difference).
sleeping
ParticipantWere you shooting though a window screen or something like that?
sleeping
ParticipantIt’s an excellent lens, but 35mm is about the equivalent of 50mm on Full frame – it’s a normal, not a wide angle.
http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=35mm+f1.8+nikon&w=74356260%40N00&z=m&s=rec
sleeping
ParticipantI’m looking around for a used wide, fast prime too, but I don’t have one yet.
Wide angle primes for DX is one of the biggest holes in Nikon’s current lens line up (Canon too, I think?).
sleeping
ParticipantThe basic problem I see here is that the background is noticeably sharper than the subject. I think it’s pretty much motion blur, 1/125 was probably not fast enough to stop motion entirely. A wider aperture and faster shutter speed would have improved the results significantly, I think – the background would be softer and subject sharper.
Contrarily, if you were going for a motion blur effect, the shutter speed should have been significantly longer to emphasize the motion more, and you would probably have been better off looking for a less detailed background to shoot against.
sleeping
Participant[dupe]
sleeping
ParticipantDSLR guy could have picked much more competitive equipment, too – a D7000 + Sigma 50-500 wouldn’t have looked nearly so cumbersome….
sleeping
ParticipantIt seems they made so few because it actually cost them a lot more than $20K to make. I think the biggest issue was probably image quality – it had (barely) good enough images to use for newspaper reproduction, which I don’t think would be the case for stills extracted from a VHS camera back then.
I do wonder if those lenses would cover, say, micro 4/3rds. A 10-40mm F1.4 would be quite something….
sleeping
ParticipantB sides:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/awrose/5732285860
http://www.flickr.com/photos/awrose/5732285824
http://www.flickr.com/photos/awrose/5728990784
http://www.flickr.com/photos/awrose/5728439831
http://www.flickr.com/photos/awrose/5728439799
http://www.flickr.com/photos/awrose/5728990662
http://www.flickr.com/photos/awrose/5604549474
http://www.flickr.com/photos/awrose/5603964907
http://www.flickr.com/photos/awrose/5604549408

sleeping
ParticipantAlso, I might suggest that the “beyond a reasonable doubt” standard would be appropriate with regards to photos where there might be some uncertainty about who took it? If you’re really not sure at all, I don’t think it would be OK to use…
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