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velvia = high contrast and very high saturation, it doesn’t look like it to me at all. Velvia on the overexposed side looks much more like this: http://flickr.com/photos/awrose/91644578/

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I need a ruling on this one. Does this one work for the garden theme? I think it is more butterfly then garden, but my wife thinks it should be ok.

When I suggested the difficulty I was trying to exclude images that didn’t give any sense of a wider context (i.e. that could have been made *without* a garden), so yours would be Ok, but this sort of thing would not:

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Oddy enough, I went in search of water this weekend myself:

Nice! Where was that taken?

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I’ve been scanning, not shooting, but these 6 made me pretty happy:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/awrose/tags/flow/show/

😀

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PC synch circuits are completely “dumb” – there’s no communication at all between the flash and the camera, so the camera doesn’t know there’s a flash present and is metering for the ambient light.

You can get standard hotshoe adapters for the funky Minolta Maxxum shoe, but the minolta X series flashes don’t have TTL circuitry, so there wouldn’t be a whole lot benefit to using one over the PC cord (it might automatically set the flash to the max synch speed and register in the exif data, but that’s about all, I think).

You ought to be able to use the auto setting on the flash (which uses a metering cell on the flash itself) though, if you manually set the camera to the max synch speed and the correct auto aperture for your ISO (based on the calculator on the back of the flash).

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Difficulty: A flower close-up is not a garden?

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that’s the contest. i sent a farkbark to correct the boobies and make it the Boobies.

Sorry about that, I waited for the first post, but didn’t check to make sure it was the right one 😳

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It seems like only the most pricey dslrs have miror lockup for picture taking (the D70 has it but only for sensor cleaning…) I didn’t realize the XD-11 had it though.

I actually have a cheap vivitar ring flash, it was the first thing I tried. Unfortunately it doesn’t work that well for me. Unless you’re shooting something very flat, getting the flash that close to the subject causes serious light fall off into the background:

Some people like this effect, I guess, as you do see it quite a lot. Not much to my taste though, I think I need a really big flash and some kind of reflector or diffuser….

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Hi Curious, I’ve only used my bellows on a heavy tripod or copy stand indoors. I haven’t done much >1x magnification stuff outside, and that’s all been done with reversed lenses, teleconverters and extension tubes.

There’s a lot of room for vibration with bellows, I think – that’s probably where the unsharpness is coming from? Being rigid, the tubes probably are a bit more stable. It could be a difference in mirror vibration, too – my XE-7 seems a lot worse in that regard than my old X-700 which died, despite being quite a bit heavier.

One of my current projects is trying to figure out good ways of using flash for macro work, I’ve seen plenty of results from other people that prove it’s possible, and it ought to help address vibration and the shutter speed vs. aperture issues I almost always get working outside, but so far the results have mostly been, shall we say, less than stellar….

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I believe there are a couple labs that specialize in old film. This is the only one I know of offhand, though, and they are both slow and expensive:

http://www.rockymountainfilm.com/

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Oh boy, we’re going to be seeing contests full of huge wide angle photos now and it’s all my fault.

You’ve created a monster! 😯

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I think it’s implied pretty clearly in the description when it says “tattoos, piercings, & other body modifications”. The context suggests only intentional modifications.

It seems to me that there’s a long history of people interpreting these topics as broadly as possible, e.g. Volkswagens in the Bugs theme etc. Personally I’d hate for that to change

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I don’t have anything to post this week, but I wouldn’t have thought twice about entering scars, etc, as involuntary modifications. If the topic is meant to exclude them, I think you need to specify that in the description.

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see my “bellows” link above. the problem i have with the focusing rail is not being able to get close and have adjustment room left. see frame #007. while the setup looks ok in frame #026 the lens front is actually pretty far back. granted i haven’t used that bellows in several years and had better success when it was being used more.

I have a very similar, if not identical, bellows, but a non-matching vivitar rail. You’re right – it would be much easier to use if you could move the back standard as well as the front (an Auto Bellows 3 would be nice….)

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i’ve done that with my 4×5 and it’s the shits. with that camera/lens however i usually had to use the roll film backs because the image moved off the 4×5 film too quickly. have no idea how or if that problem translates to 35mm.

Yeah, the standard press camera lenses often didn’t have much coverage for camera movements (my Super Graphic came with a 127mm ektar that barely covers 4×5 at infinity, and my 90mm Angulon isn’t any better). That shouldn’t be an issue for a dedicated tilt/shift lens, though (and you can get large format lenses that have a lot more coverage).

Another cheap option might be something like this: http://www.rugift.com/photocameras/p-six-35mm-cameras-shift-adapter.htm

It adapts medium format pentacon six lenses to 35mm with shift (no tilt though)

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