[Curious]

QuickSilver i came across this sale of kingston CF cards following a link from Storbist. the link went up yesterday so the prices should be good. based on price alone they beat the hell out of micro drives.

[Curious]

which would be selective or spot effects as opposed to bumping the contrast, EV or switching to b/w capture. things that are done to the entire image.

[Curious]

crap, seems i lost of of these

[Curious]

even if the user only has to hit one button and the computer does the rest.

sums it up for me.

schnee‘s “in camera” were what the definition has been for multiple exposure techniques or Elsinore‘s strobe effects. if blur or motion was used it was the result of longer exposures not using the liquefy tool or it’s equivalent in the camera software. a lot of point and shot cameras now have effects that used to have to be done in the photo processing. ergo they don’t count as straight shots.

and millera9 has a good point about either lensbaby or physical filters screwed on to the lens. the light is actually being bent at the moment of exposure. like “n camera” no manipulation is done to the actual image.

so i’m with sleeping on disallowing “post exposure” manipulation probably makes more sense than allowing in camera things, but not photoshop.

[Curious]

nah, i’m just needling you.

[Curious]

thanks Elsinore. the ghost shot is thirty years old but i still like it.

tonight was fun to shoot and more fun to see.

and BTW isn’t the one with the camera your avatar on flickr?

[Curious]

my minoltas use CF and i’ve never had problems with them. some are a bit slow but they were dirt cheap. did a bit of googleing on both high capacity CF and micro drives and it would seem you can get a lot more bang for your buck with CF. newegg has 8GB cards for $90 and the micro drive i found was 6GB for $190.

your sigma is a 10MP camera isn’t it? what size files are you getting? and at what settings? if my loose extrapolation is right you should get roughly 80 shots on a 1GB card shooting xfine jpeg. i bought a 1GB toshiba CF card at sam’s saturday for $16. and it’s much faster on download than the kodak i have.

[Curious]

The physical layout is as showed below.

i’d have gone with shown. YMMV.

and spelling and/or grammar aren’t my strong suits so put it down to nitpicking. or jealousy of all your skills.

[Curious]

schnee your shots are great and your setup description looks pretty impressive too. very professional. except for that one misspelling

I really enjoy seeing what people look like

me too. it’s why i overcame my usual reluctance to post face shots of myself. my fark profile pic is from behind.

[Curious]

Lesson, be careful of the tools.

i’m guessing you mean the TSA.

[Curious]

well lugigng all that gear around will prevent you from getting any.

at least that’s what i tell myself.

[Curious]

let me show off some.

real old hand held meter that is interesting as an antique more than a usable meter. it does work and doesn’t require batteries. you just have to read all over the dial to figure out what settings to use.

less old hand held meters which were pretty accurate in most cases. they do require batteries and i’m not sure i have good ones for them. and the batteries they need have been discontinued but substitutes can be found on the web. (as can damn near anything)

the 4 x 5 kit. the strobe works but the folks who were supposed to fix the battery pack for it just made it worse. that sucker will provide fill flash at 30 ft in full sun. or used too. 🙁 got the kit in a trade many years ago. camera body, two lenses, ten sheet film backs, two bulk film backs, two roll film backs, the meters above, shade cloth, case, etc. all for a rifle that i didn’t want anyway. at the time the dollars were equal and both of us ended up with what we wanted. one of my better deals.

[Curious]

first of all, thanks for the response.

when i was developing 4 x 5 in a tank the only time i had problems was loading film from a bulk pack. it was really thin and a pain to put in the holder. sheet film in b/w or chrome wasn’t a problem. nor was there any difference between the three in development. all seemed even.

have a visioneer 9420 scanner and tried scanning some kodak 400 gold strips the other day. the results were disappointing. that might be due to the negs not being critically sharp however. or it could be the curve. with cold light there isn’t that pop one can fix before the print exposure starts.

will shot some more tuesday and see how they do. i have three XD-11 bodies and three minolta lenses. a MD Rokkor-X 50 mm F1.4, a MD zoom 28-70 mm F3.5 and a MD zoom 70-210 mm F4.5. when i was using them regularly i could get critically sharp shots most of the time. the last test series may have been thrown off by the problem i was having using the split screen. one half dark, one not. all three bodies need a serious cleaning but at $120 per body that won’t happen anytime soon.

and just FYI i have a 6 x 9 roll film back for the crown graphic.

[Curious]

Then, I also have 4×5″ and 5×7″ large format cameras… Developing sheet film by hand without a proper darkroom is kind of a pain though, I haven’t used them as much as I should…

i have a crown graphic that hasn’t been used in years due to not having a means to print from the negatives. nor do i own a developing tank for the negatives.

1) do you not use a tank and just develop the negatives as one would a print? in trays?
2) if you use a tank do you not have a light tight room to load it in?
3) do your scans of 6 x 6 (or what we old timers call 2 1/14) produce prints bigger than 8 x 10 that are decent? my 2400 dpi scans of 35mm produced really disappointing results. and my scanner won’t do 4800 dpi on that size source. although it’s supposed to do 4800 dpi.
4) since a 4 x 5 scan to a 8 x 10 print is only a four fold increase do those print well?

and here Quality-wise, there’s not that much difference between my D70 and 35mm film. i’m thinking you mean printing from the source not a print from a scan of the neg.

[Curious]

in a word – yes. it’s not so much finicky as reduced latitude. Color slide films, for example, usually produce the best results when they are within a 1/2 stop over or under the correct exposure. But you will have somewhat more latitude–often two-stops or more–with black-and-white and color negative (print) films.

that was from this old kodak metering article from 1998 that has a lot of good info. several of their suggestions re bracketing and learning your particular meter are now much easier to do in digital. for one thing the EXIF data precludes having to keep notes.

[Author]

Posts