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How you know things are getting out of hand: Your photo setup involves 1 macro lens, 2 sets of bellows, a slide copier, an LED flashlight, and a glass slide mount…

Yes, there will be high-magnification bacon 🙂

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CillarySpasm and CauseISaidSo I’m not sure I understand your question. The whole point of this theme is to showcase photographs where the “process” ends at the point you press the shutter.

I think the intent here is fairly clear, but as a purely technical matter that actually *can’t* happen with raw files (or anything scanned from film for that matter). A raw file in most cases isn’t actually a displayable image in it’s native format (previews and such are generally based on an embedded low-res JPEG). Converting a raw file to a usable image always involves some degree of post-processing even if you just take the default settings in your converter (and the output results will depend on the converter used).

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http://www.fark.com/totalfarksignup (you might need to be logged in for the option to show up)

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Dust on/inside a lens isn’t directly visible without some pretty extreme circumstances (e.g. I got some front element dust showing up once by using so many extension tubes that the front element was pretty much within the DOF).

It’s much, much more likely to be on the sensor.

Often a good blowing with a rocket blower or similar will get rid of it without needing swabs etc.

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Especially because if you can create a humorous photo that’s also technically superior, I think you probably deserve to win.

Problem is, at least based on today’s evidence, is that what it would generally require to win based on the combined votes is neither technically superior, nor actually funny.

Unfortunately, I think what it comes down to is we have a choice between *somewhat* disadvantaging funny entries or giving them an *overwhelming* advantage…

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NASA used to use Hasselbads, all the Moon photos and stuff were shot with them I believe.

Edit: Link to a manual – http://www.hasselblad.com/media/2207875/astronauts_manual_singlepage_lr.pdf

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It may actually make more sense to wait and gather some information about how the voting actually works in practice before making a final decision here, but it seems to me that counting the funny votes as equal to the best ones could be problematic: I suspect there are in most cases a fairly small number of potential “funny” entries, and a much high number of potential “best” entries, so if people vote for both categories evenly, that could weight the results overwhelmingly towards the funny side on balance, or turn the threads into primarily funny picture ones, which I’m not sure we want?

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It’s also worth considering that a lot of what Adams did was intimately tied to the idea of previsualization. He generally knew pretty much what he was going to be doing in the darkroom based on analyzing the scene *before* he pressed the shutter button…

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So are those going to be the same options for Farktography contests (smart or funny)?

Going by the PS contests, it’s Best instead of Smart for contest threads…

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The equally non-existent 36 MP (?!?) D800 is sneering at it’s measly 16 megapixels, though….

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Hmm, that list is actually missing a bunch of options (Tokina 11-16mm and 16-24mm, Rokinon 14mm, zeiss 18 and 21mm all spring to mind) and has some mistakes (sigma 17-70 isn’t full frame)

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I used the Tokina 12-24mm quite a lot on DX. I preferred it over some of the wider options, because 24mm vs 16mm on the wide end meant I could carry that, plus a 35/1.8 and a tele zoom (50-135mm usually) and ditch a standard zoom altogether. I didn’t find 12mm on the wide end (or F4) particularly limiting, but YMMV….

http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=12-24mm&w=74356260%40N00&s=int&z=e

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but really, considering every teenager has a camera phone, I don’t know why or how a mall can think they can prevent photography on their premises.

Camera phones are common and therefore safe. DSLRs are uncommon and therefore dangerous…. 🙄

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Oh, another thing that could be useful if you’re dealing with dancers and such is rear curtain flash with a long-ish shutter speed – you can get more of a sense of movement that way…

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Flash brackets only work at close distances. If you’re 20 feet away from your subject, moving the flash a foot or so onto a bracket doesn’t really make much difference at all. Ideally you’d want to be able to put it some distance away from where you’re shooting (and also if possible keep close enough to the ambient light levels to preserve some kind of detail in the shadows).

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