[Curious]

hey at least you have something. i didn’t like what i shot and my archives are sans sports pics.

but there’s next week. and given the theme i know i have something for it. 🙂

[Curious]

Drew posted the final version on totalfark and in the PSAEF at 5:32:52

PSAEF here http://forums.fark.com/cgi/fark/comments.pl?IDLink=6&hoursago=48&hours=48&ok=1

INAL but i think you all will like it and can live with it. even those that sell their work.

[Curious]

personally i like the three girls running better than the baseball ones but that’s just me. they are all good.

[Curious]

i shot 77 exposures today testing my 75-300 at full tele. have 23 that i was going to put on flickr for you folks to look at but that will use my 100MB monthly limit and then some. i’ll have to cull them some more.

tomorrow is a work day and thursday i’ve got to take a friend to mc comb so it may be this weekend before they’re up.

millera9 i was inspired by your crane head. had to see what mine could do although the distances are nowhere near as great. mine are almost all at the closest focus distance.

and re color the 7D is much better than the 7i which in turn is better than the point and shoots.

[Curious]

Why do you shoot with your glasses on? I’ve got the diopter on mine set to the astigmatism in my left eye (left-eyed weirdos unite!) so that I can shoot without my stupid glasses on. My biggest problem is that my ridiculous nose touches the screen and leaves a nice big smudge!

what he said. all of it.

besides with my glasses on i can’t really see through the viewfinder properly.

[Curious]

I have yet to try setting the focus point as only the central box. That would probably accomplish the same thing for me.

having never used the canon digitals i don’t know how tight they are .. but the maxxum 7D is a nine square grid and the center definitely does what you want. especially on tight shots like the butterflies. actually it probably works well in any particular square/box but i usually use the center. that halfway down to set the exposure then move to compose is faster than manual IMHO.

and while it may not be literally true i tend to think that routing through a UPS gives you better spike/surge protection. the power around here tends to be a bit erratic.

[Curious]

one trick i use is to change the AF button from the shutter to one of the ones on the back

Ahhh the infamous back button focusing. I tried that and couldn’t get the hang of it, though admittedly I didn’t try for very long. I know a lot of people swear by it, though.

the/my maxxum 7D has that and it’s real handy unless you hit it by mistake. then it’s sort of WTF. so long as you want to use it and keep it pressed it’s a nice feature.

[Curious]

somewhat out of order.

Get a UPS, now. Run everything you care about through it.
Daisy chaining three UPSs before you even think about plugging in your computer is the bare minimum for nerd status.

what he said, although i don’t count as a nerd by the x 3 thing i do have all my computers on UPS. in millera9‘s case that will have to wait until the powers back.

Instead just throw away your associations of focal length to field of view from your film cameras and build new associations of how those focal lengths look on a DSLR. You do a whole lot less math that way.

when you’re right, you’re right. my tele is a 75-300 and the longest lens i had before was a 210 so i’m still getting used to the extra length in general. and then when the shots aren’t critically sharp at full zoom i tend to say things like: “well it’s really a 480 and i was hand holding so what do you expect?” plus with that lens it takes a really bright day to get decent speed AND aperture.

i think the lesson here is you get what you pay for and given the budget the bulk of the money went into the body.

re the manual vs. auto focus debate i used minolta’s XD-11 bodies for years before going digital and they have split prism (manual focus only) and except for really low light worked fine. and were fast once you got used to them. now with the maxxum 7D set to center auto focus it works as well as i can manually focus 90% of the time. the “focus here or there” setting produces unacceptable results more often than not. especially on busy subjects at close distance.

ISO 100 lets you open the aperture more for depth of field.

pardon? isn’t it the smaller the aperture the greater the depth of field? and the higher the ISO the greater the light gathering?

but if you’re shooting RAW, 100 lets you dig a lot deeper into the shadows for detail.

when i first got into B/W photography i was taught to shoot tri-x at 250 then under develop slightly to get shadow detail w/o getting too much noticeable grain. is this similar? i really don’t understand why letting in less light would produce more detail. with film the actual media (the film coating) is different for different ISOs. or is there something in the software that produces the same results.

[Curious]

/Honest feedback from you folks is much appreciated. Your opinions are valued.

i can honestly say those are really nice. did you use the auto focus? and if so it does a better job than mine. or it may be that having a true DSLR lens makes more difference than i thought. i have auto focus film lenses mated to my DSLR body so there’s the 1.6 sensor factor to deal with. if i understand all the conversion stuff correctly my lens at 200 is the equivalent of a 320 film while yours is 200 period. of the ones i looked at that orange bird is not critically sharp but the cranes (?) are really great. the detail is super. the crane head shot says F8 at 200mm but the depth of field is shallower than i would have thought. incredibly sharp where it’s sharp but shallow. the second bee ran into the same problem we had with our bee pictures earlier. (by that i mean we both shot bees and have had the same problems) which is the depth of field vs. shutter speed. i noticed you are/were using ISO 100. any particular reason or just testing. since i “grew up” using ASA 400 color film and tri-x i stick with that now. decent speed vs. noise, at least for me.

i would be surprised if the one receptacle problem was related to work downstairs but one never knows. i was serious about the extension cord. may be mickey mouse but it will get you by until the outlet is fixed. i’ve got a Dell desktop with a 17″ CRT on an extension cord at work. and a printer we seldom use. it does fine and it’s 14 gauge wire.

[Curious]

Came home to find that 1) the outlet that my computer is plugged into is not working

tried the circuit breaker?

an extension cord?

hope you get your replacement soon. having brand new stuff fail is the absolute worst.

[Curious]

No, imageshack’s policy is much better:

for a site that only hosts it’s fine. seems to me it’s different with fark.

[Curious]

i’m with monkeybort on this. i’ve heard of them and am glad i now know just what they do but … no thanks.

[Curious]

thank you very much monkeybort. i had downloaded 2.0e last night but got an “update” message when i started FF this afternoon. like an idiot i installed the “update” and broke the fixed one. last night’s link in now 404 and i’d been hunting all over for the new download site.

you saved me a LOT of grief.

[Curious]

yeah, a lot of people use the icon if they have a thread about camera questions or cat pictures or something.

oh, guess that tells you how much i total fark. hadn’t seen it before.

and since we’ve been talking copyrights …

it may be fark’s icon but i’d say we go after anyone who uses it for brand dilution. have a notice in the FAQ’s to that effect and permaban anyone who uses it outside of the contests.

😆

[Curious]

Elsinore ooooooooops.

my bad, sorry. 😳 guess i really need to sort my “convert” folder. one was in the sub folder “minolta” (converted photos taken with that camera, and one in the sub folder “PS convert” which was started when i realized the resizer i’d been using wasn’t as good as the save for web in photoshop.

again my apologies.

[Author]

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