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Heh, it was a toss-up between that and the animated Camella Grace/TOOL eye. I have that poster on my wall in my apartment…

I was browsing the avatars, saw the butt floss and knew, just knew that millera9 was going to be all over it.

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The FSM’s image sucker waits for something like 15 seconds (can’t remember exactly) before giving up. I have to put a limit somewhere. Sorry about that.

The FSM doesn’t try to refetch – one try only. That could probably be changed. At some point. In the nebulous future.

But, hey, thanks for using the FSM. Really. I mean it. Thanks!

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i’m not sure what you’re talking about curious? combine existing shots or do a setup where I can see the people through the rings? I definitely need a closer-focusing lens to get any engraving detail; i just don’t have the glass for that right now.

Yes you do. Go buy a set of Kenko extension tubes. They allow you to shoot macros with a standard lens by pulling the body away from the lens element. Most of the recent macros in my flickr stream were taken with my 70-200 f4 L which has a minimum distance of 1.2 meters. With a 36mm extension tube on there, I can get as close as I want. They take some getting used to because they eliminate the ability to focus to infinity, so you can only take close-ups when they’re on there, but there’s no glass in them so your lens quality isn’t harmed and the AF still works because they communicate with the camera body just fine. They’re a good solution for someone looking to expand their abilities without breaking the bank on new lenses.

I have the same lens as millera9 and for my closeup work, I slap on a Nikon 5T closeup lens. It is a color corrected diopter, and examples of the closeups can be found on my flickr page.

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hufff…..and I suppose “cays” are out as well? It will probably save us a geography lesson 😉

Yeah, I thought I would take a pic of Fisherman’s Quay up the road from me, but I figured that would be pushing it.

/got nothin’

Dammit, you guys stole my idea!!! Crap!

Dammit millera9, you stole my idea : Crap, the key to a healthy bowel.

Now what am i going to do 😯

Dammit, I was hoping to see a bunch of Quays! Crap!

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Up with avatars, down with signatures!

That’s good, my signature is right down there

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Farktography should have plaques and walls.

Is that a theme suggestion? I second it.

(congrats Analogy)

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ok i read that then spent an hour doing more scans the net result of which is i can get decent resolution but definitely not sharp. and one application of “sharpen” in PS helps but “sharpen more” is too much. as far as color goes, well i was shooting film from seatle film works so the color was never that good to begin with.

Scans always need some sharpening to look good, but try Unsharp Mask in PS instead of Sharpen, something around the lines of

Amount: 250
Radius: 1.1 (play with this first if it doesn’t look good. Small changes can make a big difference)
Threshold: 4

I usually use an edge-sharpening workflow. Google for “sharpen only edges” or something like that.

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Kata R-102 backpack. Modular system, but I don’t have any modules (except for the included tripod holster). They even have a “bag chooser” – enter your kit and find the bag.

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I use a Minolta Dimage Scan Elite, which is no longer manufactured. It is a dedicated 35mm film scanner (negative and slides). Very happy with it, and you may be able to get one on eBay.

I don’t have any experience with the scanners you mentioned, but back when I was researching (7-8 years ago), I almost bought a Canon. If I had to buy an new one today, I’d probably consider 9550F (or a Nikon for even more $$$). I’m a little leary of the scanners that can do both transparent and reflective media, and the ones that scan more than one image at a time. On that last point, I question the mechanical tolerances.

I have noticed that my images are less sharp than others on Farktography (even after edge sharpening in my image editor). I’m not sure if that is the scanner or some other part of my workflow.

If you have older film, you may want to ensure that the scanner has FARE (from Canon) or Digital ICE/ROC/GEM (from Kodak, licensed to OEMs). Both of these use a combination of software and hardware to clean up images (color restoration, dust/scratch removal, &c.). The dust/scratch stuff can really save time.

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Since going through the Strobist “Lighting 102” flash/distance exercise, I think I’ve nailed down the technique.

Now I just need to convince my wife that I need a decent flash/light meter so I’m not chimping the hell out of the sessions.

Very Nice. Good luck with the convincing part. If successful, let me know ’cause I’m trying to do the same thing….

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…ignorance by a random liter^H^H^H^H^H Farktography noob.

fixed it for you.

/anyone know how to get strikethrough to work using BBCode?

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Yeah, Forks was left open and it was fun to try to think outside of the box. Here’s a listing of the entries that got votes. Non-utensil-based images did well in the voting.

“Keys” is a heavily overloaded term. Should be interesting.

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meh, no biggie. I hadn’t thought of it either (which is probably even worse lol). Quick Silver‘s keeping us on our toes!

Not meaning to tell those here who have spent years honing this website to the fineness it has become how to do anything, just trying to understand the rules better so as not to offend someone and end up with a deleted entry. 🙂

What E said, no offense taken. I’m happy to be part of a community that questions the rules and provides feedback. Keeps Farktography vibrant.

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Photography for Realestate. It’s got some good design advice.

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Hey, I used an Ultrapod to suspend the flash above me for my shots this week! I hadn’t used it in over a year, but now that I’m getting the flash off-camera, I can see the possibilities.

I looked at your entries last night, I liked them a lot…really cool…good work!

Thanks, it was a very fun photoshoot. I figured I’d do well in the voting, but I had no idea. I’m going with “execution” instead of “subject matter”. I don’t know if you saw how I did it. Feel free to, well, plagiarize me.

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